A Redback in fault tells you through a red SYSTEM ERROR light, an alarm email, a beep or a message in the portal. Whichever it is, the solar or the battery has stopped pulling its weight, and the shortfall comes from the grid at full price. A beeping Redback is the one to act on straight away: Earth Fault Alarm means the system has found a fault to earth on the solar or battery wiring.
Redback is an Australian maker based in Brisbane, with a large fleet of systems on Queensland homes going back to 2016. Some faults inside the inverter or a battery module can be repaired and some cannot. Many Redback faults are not hardware at all: an isolator left off, a backup circuit asked to carry too much, a battery below its minimum charge, or a router change that has taken the system offline.
Sorted early, most of these are a check, a reset or a setting. Left alone, a battery that keeps dropping below its minimum cannot back the house up, and an earth fault on the roof or in the enclosure stays a safety risk until someone finds it.
Find your code in the table below to see what it means and how urgent it is. If your home is in Adelaide, the Adelaide Hills, Gawler, the Barossa, the Fleurieu, Murray Bridge and Yorke Peninsula in South Australia, or North Brisbane, Caboolture, Bribie Island, the Sunshine Coast, Noosa and Gympie in Queensland, our own licensed electricians will go through it with you over the phone for free before anyone drives out. Check your postcode to see if we cover you.
The model is on the label on the inverter and on the battery enclosure. The Redback portal and the MyRedback app list the system while it is online.
Redback shows a fault as a named message, like Utility Loss or Isolation Failure, in the Redback portal and the alarm email, and as a pattern of LEDs on the unit: SYSTEM ERROR on steadily for most faults, and with beeping for an earth fault. Every code is below, grouped by what it relates to: the grid and mains supply, the panel input and power output, insulation and earth faults, the unit's internal hardware, the battery, and monitoring. The number in brackets after each code's name is its source in the reference list.
We always err on the cautious side: when a code sits between two ratings, it gets the higher one.
The mains grid coming into the unit: voltage, frequency and outages. Many of these are the grid, not the inverter, and clear on their own. 1 stop and call, 1 worth a look, 3 wait and watch.
| Error code | What it means | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Fac FailureRedback Fac Failure | Grid frequency out of range[1][2] The grid frequency went outside the inverter's limits for a moment and it disconnected. This is a grid event, not an inverter fault; it reconnects by itself once the grid is steady. Safe steps in the lookup |
Wait and watch |
| Interlocked Inverter FaultRedback Interlocked Inverter Fault | Another inverter tripped the set[3] On a house with two or three SI Smart Inverters on different phases, a fault on one makes the others disconnect from the grid until it recovers or is isolated. The healthy inverters show a grid-disconnect pattern; the faulted one shows red. Restarting the faulted unit usually brings the set back; if it will not restart, the installer isolates it so the others can run. A protection lockout means the inverter found something it will not run with, so we treat it as a call. Safe steps in the lookup |
Stop and call |
| System ErrorRedback System Error | General system fault[2][3][5] The inverter has stopped on a fault it does not name on the panel: the SYSTEM ERROR LED is on steadily with no beeping (on the SI the status LED is solid red). Redback says many are caused by outside factors such as grid quality and clear within ten minutes; if not, one restart is next, and if it comes back it needs Redback or your installer. The portal and the alarm email name the fault. Safe steps in the lookup |
Worth a look |
| Utility LossRedback Utility Loss | No grid detected[2][7] The inverter cannot see mains power on its grid side. Usually the power is out, or the solar supply main switch or the UTILITY GRID isolator is off. On a hybrid the backup circuit keeps running from solar and battery; the inverter reconnects itself about a minute after the grid is back. Safe steps in the lookup |
Wait and watch |
| Vac FailureRedback Vac Failure | Grid voltage out of range[1][2][3] The mains voltage at the inverter went outside the range it is allowed to connect at, so it disconnected from the grid as the rules require. On the SH5000, SI and ST this shows as the UTILITY GRID LED flashing (grid active but not connected). It reconnects by itself; if it happens most sunny afternoons the street voltage or the cable run needs checking. Safe steps in the lookup |
Wait and watch |
The DC input from the panels and the power the unit puts out: string voltage, low light, overloads and output limits. 1 stop and call, 2 worth a look, 1 wait and watch.
| Error code | What it means | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Backup Circuit OverloadRedback Backup Circuit Overload | Backup circuit overloaded[1][2][5] The appliances on the backup circuit are drawing more than the inverter can supply: on the SH5000 more than 4.6 kW continuously, 6.9 kW for ten seconds, or more than the solar and battery can give during a blackout. The SYSTEM ERROR LED flashes and the inverter shuts down, then retries about a minute later. Switch off the heavy appliances and it recovers. Safe steps in the lookup |
Worth a look |
| Backup Not ReadyRedback Backup Not Ready | Backup circuit not ready[1][2] The inverter is not able to run the backup circuit from the battery: the BACKUP POWER LED is off. Shortly after a restart this is normal for up to ten minutes; otherwise the battery is flat, switched off or not communicating, and the backup circuit will not carry the house through a blackout until it is fixed. Safe steps in the lookup |
Worth a look |
| PV Over VoltageRedback PV Over Voltage | Panel voltage too high[1] The voltage from the solar panels is above what the inverter accepts, which usually means too many panels in one string. It shows most on cold clear mornings. The string design needs checking by an electrician; the inverter protects itself by not starting. Over-voltage, over-current and short-circuit faults can damage hardware, so we treat them as a call. Safe steps in the lookup |
Stop and call |
| Solar Array Not ActiveRedback Solar Array Not Active | No solar input[2][5] The inverter is not seeing any power from the panels in daylight: the SOLAR ARRAY LED is off, or one of the two arrays shows Not Active when both are installed. Most often the PV ARRAY DC isolator is off; at night both arrays showing Not Active is normal. If the isolator is on and it is daylight, a string or isolator fault needs an electrician. Safe steps in the lookup |
Wait and watch |
Insulation, earth and leakage faults on the solar panel side. These are safety faults: live DC wiring may be leaking to earth somewhere on the roof. 4 stop and call.
| Error code | What it means | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Earth Fault AlarmRedback Earth Fault Alarm | Earth fault alarm (beeping)[2][3][4] The system has detected an earth fault on the solar or battery wiring. After one minute the inverter sounds an audible alarm, the SYSTEM ERROR LED (or SYSTEM icon) turns solid red, and Redback emails its support team, the installer and the owner, with another email when it clears. It is an electrical safety fault: contact your installer as soon as possible rather than restarting it. Safe steps in the lookup |
Stop and call |
| GFCI FailureRedback GFCI Failure | Leakage sensor fault[1] The inverter's own earth-leakage sensing circuit has failed its check, as opposed to finding a real leak. If one restart does not clear it the sensor or board inside has failed and needs a technician. Safe steps in the lookup |
Stop and call |
| Ground I FailureRedback Ground I Failure | Earth leakage current trip[1] The inverter measured current leaking to earth from the solar or battery wiring, usually damaged insulation, water in a connector or a wet rooftop isolator. Because this is an electrical safety trip, do not keep restarting it; a repeat needs an electrician. Safe steps in the lookup |
Stop and call |
| Isolation FailureRedback Isolation Failure | Panel insulation fault[1] The inverter found too little insulation between the solar wiring and earth, usually water in a connector or rooftop isolator, a chafed cable or a damaged panel. Morning alarms that clear by midday point to dew; a fault that stays is an electrical safety issue and needs an electrician. Safe steps in the lookup |
Stop and call |
The unit's own electronics: relays, sensors, the DC bus, memory and its self-checks. Nearly all of these need an electrician. 8 stop and call, 1 worth a look.
| Error code | What it means | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| AC HCT FailureRedback AC HCT Failure | Output current sensor fault[1] The sensor the inverter uses to measure its own output current failed its self-check, so the inverter cannot trust its readings and stops. One restart may clear it; if it comes back the sensor or board inside has failed. Safe steps in the lookup |
Stop and call |
| DC Bus HighRedback DC Bus High | Internal DC bus too high[1] The voltage on the inverter's internal DC bus went above its limit. It can be a string with too many panels or a surge; if a restart does not clear it the power board inside needs a technician. Safe steps in the lookup |
Stop and call |
| DC Injection FailureRedback DC Injection Failure | DC injection too high[1] The inverter is letting a small amount of DC into its AC output, which the grid rules do not allow, so it disconnected. A one-off usually clears with a wait or one restart; if it keeps coming back the output stage or its current sensor needs testing. DC on the AC side is a protection fault, so we treat it as a call. Safe steps in the lookup |
Stop and call |
| EEPROM R/W FailureRedback EEPROM R/W Failure | Memory fault[1] The inverter could not read or write its settings memory. It usually keeps producing, and one restart often clears it; if it comes back the control board has a fault and the settings may need reloading by a technician. Internal and hardware faults need testing with the right instruments, so we treat them as a call. Safe steps in the lookup |
Stop and call |
| EMS Not RespondingRedback EMS Not Responding | Control board (EMS) not responding[2][4][6] The EMS, the small control computer inside the switchgear box that runs the inverter and its monitoring, has frozen, is mid-update or has lost its link to the inverter. The HEARTBEAT LED stops flashing or the INVERTER LED goes off. Redback's guide says wait five minutes, then an EMS restart; the EMS restart should only be done when Redback support or the guide's LED table asks for it. Safe steps in the lookup |
Worth a look |
| Internal FailureRedback Internal Failure | Inverter not operating[2][3] The inverter shows no life even though the grid and solar are on: on the SI the status LED stays off, on the SH5000 the SYSTEM READY LED stays off for more than a minute after a restart. If the isolators are on and the house has power, Redback calls this an internal failure and it needs Redback or your installer. Safe steps in the lookup |
Stop and call |
| Relay-Check FailureRedback Relay-Check Failure | Grid relay fault[1] The relays that connect the inverter to the grid failed their self-test, which usually means a relay is stuck or welded. The inverter must not keep running on a failed relay, so if one restart does not clear it the unit needs a technician. Safe steps in the lookup |
Stop and call |
| SPI FailureRedback SPI Failure | Internal communication fault[1] The processors inside the inverter have stopped talking to each other. This is not the wifi or app connection. It can recover with one restart; if it comes back the control board needs a technician. Safe steps in the lookup |
Stop and call |
| Over TemperatureRedback Over Temperature | Inverter too hot[1][2][3] The inverter's internal temperature went over its limit, so it cut back or shut down. Redback cuts output above 45 degrees inside and shuts down above 60. Usually it is in full sun, a closed room or a hot shed; it comes back once it cools. If it happens on ordinary days the mounting spot or the cooling fins need a look. Heat shutdowns point at a failing fan, a blocked vent or a bad installation spot, so we treat them as a call. Safe steps in the lookup |
Stop and call |
The battery, its management system and its state of charge. These only appear on systems with a battery connected. 4 stop and call, 4 worth a look, 2 wait and watch.
| Error code | What it means | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Battery Cell Voltage DifferencesRedback Battery Cell Voltage Differences | Battery cells out of balance[1] The battery's management system reports that the cells inside a module are at different voltages. A small spread often settles after a full charge; a large or growing spread means a weak module that the installer or battery maker needs to assess. Safe steps in the lookup |
Worth a look |
| Battery Charge Over CurrentRedback Battery Charge Over Current | Battery charging too hard[1] The inverter tried to push more charge current into the battery than the battery maker allows. It usually clears on its own; if it repeats the charge rate setting or a battery module needs checking by the installer. Over-voltage, over-current and short-circuit faults can damage hardware, so we treat them as a call. Safe steps in the lookup |
Stop and call |
| Battery Communication FailureRedback Battery Communication Failure | Battery not communicating[1][2][4] The inverter has lost contact with the battery's management system (BMS), so it will not charge or discharge the battery until it is back. Often a module has switched itself off, a comms cable is loose, or the EMS needs a restart. On the SH5000 the EMS BATTERY LED shows a battery detection error; the owner's guide says to restart the EMS. Safe steps in the lookup |
Worth a look |
| Battery Discharge Over CurrentRedback Battery Discharge Over Current | Battery discharging too hard[1] The backup circuit was pulling more current from the battery than the battery maker allows, usually a large appliance starting during a blackout. Switch off the heavy appliance and it recovers; if it trips with ordinary loads the settings need checking. Over-voltage, over-current and short-circuit faults can damage hardware, so we treat them as a call. Safe steps in the lookup |
Stop and call |
| Battery Output ShortRedback Battery Output Short | Battery short circuit[1] The battery's management system detected a short circuit on its output. This is a serious DC fault: leave the battery isolators where they are and call your installer; do not keep restarting it. Safe steps in the lookup |
Stop and call |
| Battery Over TemperatureRedback Battery Over Temperature | Battery too hot[1][2] The battery modules in the enclosure are above their safe temperature, so the inverter has stopped charging and discharging them. It restarts once they cool; if it happens on ordinary days the enclosure's ventilation or location needs a look, and a battery that heats up at rest needs an electrician. Heat shutdowns point at a failing fan, a blocked vent or a bad installation spot, so we treat them as a call. Safe steps in the lookup |
Stop and call |
| Battery Over Total VoltageRedback Battery Over Total Voltage | Battery voltage too high[1] The battery bank's total voltage went above the limit the battery maker sets, so the inverter stopped charging it. A one-off at the end of a charge usually clears; a repeat means the charge settings or a battery module need checking. Safe steps in the lookup |
Worth a look |
| Battery Under SOCRedback Battery Under SOC | Battery charge too low[1][2] The battery has reached its minimum state of charge and the inverter has stopped drawing from it to protect it. This is normal protection, not a fault: on the SH5000 the BATTERY LED double-flashes until it recharges from solar or the grid. If it stays low on a sunny day the charge settings need a look. Safe steps in the lookup |
Wait and watch |
| Battery Under TemperatureRedback Battery Under Temperature | Battery too cold[1] The battery modules are below the temperature the battery maker allows for charging, so the inverter has paused charging to protect them. This is normal on frosty mornings in a cold shed or garage and clears as the day warms. Safe steps in the lookup |
Wait and watch |
| Battery Under Total VoltageRedback Battery Under Total Voltage | Battery voltage too low[1][2] The battery bank's total voltage has dropped below the battery maker's minimum, usually after a long blackout or a long cloudy stretch with heavy backup use. The inverter stops drawing from it to protect it. It should recover once solar or the grid recharges it; a battery that will not recharge needs the installer. Safe steps in the lookup |
Worth a look |
Monitoring, Wi-Fi, meters, communication between parts of the system, settings and firmware. Usually not a hardware fault, but the system may stop reporting. 1 worth a look, 1 wait and watch.
| Error code | What it means | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| OfflineRedback Offline | Portal shows offline[2][3][6] The inverter has lost its internet connection, so the portal and MyRedback app stop updating and Redback cannot send alarm emails. The system keeps producing. Nearly always a router, wifi password or network change; Redback says the inverter does not work on 5 GHz wifi. Ethernet systems usually recover after a restart; wifi systems need re-onboarding with the app. Safe steps in the lookup |
Wait and watch |
| Smart Meter Communications FailureRedback Smart Meter Communications Failure | Energy meter not talking[3][4][5] The Redback smart meter at the switchboard (PA110 on the SI, SM3000 on the SH5000, SB and ST) has stopped sending the house's import and export figures to the inverter. The inverter keeps producing but cannot see the house load, so the battery and export control go wrong. Redback says to contact your installer straight away. Safe steps in the lookup |
Worth a look |
No Redback error code matches that. Try the fault code lookup, which also works from a description of what you can see.
Our own licensed electricians cover Greater Adelaide and regional SA, and from North Brisbane up through the Sunshine Coast to Gympie. Check your postcode, then read us the code and tell us the install year. If it needs a visit, the callout is credited against the work.
Redback sets out its own inverter restart in section 9.4 of the owner's guide. Work through these checks first, in this order:
If the code comes back after the restart, set the Bypass switch up so the backup circuit stays on grid power, then stop and call. Never open the inverter or the battery enclosure, or touch the wiring. Never restart anything that smells hot or shows scorch marks. Do not restart a beeping system or one showing Battery Output Short: leave the isolators where they are and call.
Our electricians test the whole Redback system before deciding where the fault is: insulation resistance on every string, earth continuity, the grid relays, DC string and battery voltages, the battery modules' cell readings, the smart meter link, the AC supply and the fault history in the portal. Isolation Failure and Ground I Failure are often a wet rooftop isolator or connector, and Smart Meter Communications Failure is the meter at the switchboard losing touch with the inverter, not the inverter itself.
With Redback, a fault inside the inverter or a battery module is checked for a repair first. Some can be fixed and some cannot. Where a part or the unit has to be replaced, we price that beside any repair that is still possible, and the callout comes off whichever you choose.
We do this work in Adelaide, the Adelaide Hills, Gawler, the Barossa, the Fleurieu, Murray Bridge and Yorke Peninsula in South Australia, or North Brisbane, Caboolture, Bribie Island, the Sunshine Coast, Noosa and Gympie in Queensland only. Outside those areas, everything above still applies: take the code, its meaning and the urgency to a licensed electrician near you.
Every Redback code on this page was read from the maker's own manual. The numbers match the references in the code table.
Tables last updated
Look at the portal or the alarm email first, because both name the fault, then type that name into the search box above the table. If you only have the lights to go on, note which LEDs are lit, whether SYSTEM ERROR is steady, and whether the unit is beeping, and read us that on the phone.
Utility Loss is “no grid detected”. The inverter cannot see mains power on its grid side. Usually the power is out, or the solar supply main switch or the UTILITY GRID isolator is off. On a hybrid the backup circuit keeps running from solar and battery; the inverter reconnects itself about a minute after the grid is back. We rate it wait and watch. See it in the table.
Earth Fault Alarm is “earth fault alarm (beeping)”. The system has detected an earth fault on the solar or battery wiring. After one minute the inverter sounds an audible alarm, the SYSTEM ERROR LED (or SYSTEM icon) turns solid red, and Redback emails its support team, the installer and the owner, with another email when it clears. It is an electrical safety fault: contact your installer as soon as possible rather than restarting it. We rate it stop and call. See it in the table.
We work in Adelaide, the Adelaide Hills, Gawler, the Barossa, the Fleurieu, Murray Bridge and Yorke Peninsula in South Australia, or North Brisbane, Caboolture, Bribie Island, the Sunshine Coast, Noosa and Gympie in Queensland. Check your postcode to be sure. Outside those areas, this page still tells you what your code means and how urgent it is, and a licensed electrician near you can take it from there.
For homes in our service area, the phone diagnosis is free. If it needs a visit, there is a callout fee, and it is credited against any repair or replacement we do.
Yes, if it is in our service area. Most of our repair work is on systems someone else installed. We test the whole system, not just the unit on the wall.
A Redback beeps when it has found an earth fault on the solar or battery wiring. After a minute the alarm sounds, the SYSTEM ERROR light turns solid red and an alarm email goes out. Do not keep restarting it. It is an electrical safety fault, so have an electrician look at it as soon as you can.
Offline means the system has lost its internet connection, so the portal and the app stop updating and the alarm emails stop too. The solar keeps producing. It is nearly always the router, the wifi password or a change of provider. Restart the modem and router and wait 10 minutes. The inverter needs a 2.4 GHz network, and a wifi system may need re-onboarding with the MyRedback app.
From Redback’s own installation manual and owner’s guides for the Smart Hybrid, Smart Inverter, Smart 3-Phase Hybrid and Smart Battery, and its knowledge base guide to resetting the inverter. Every Redback code on this page comes from the maker’s own documents, one of them an archived copy of the 2016 manual, and each carries a numbered reference to its document in the source list.
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